BCN Peel #03 – Depigmentant is a chemical exfoliant that combines three alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): lactic acid, mandelic acid and glycolic acid. It is characterized by its depigmenting, antioxidant and regenerative action.
Lactic acid breaks the protein junctions between the corneocytes, causing their detachment and reducing the thickness of the hyperkeratotic stratum corneum. It stimulates the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans constituents of the dermal matrix. Also exerts a natural moisturizing effect on the skin by attracting water molecules to the horny layer and stimulating the synthesis of ceramides, improving and modulating the barrier function. It promotes homogenous dispersion of melanin, inhibits the action of tyrosinase and blocks melanogenesis. Has an antioxidant effect.
Mandelic acid has a bigger molecular structure than other AHAs so it penetrates more slowly into the stratum corneum and requires a longer exposure time. For this reason it does not cause irritation or pruritus on the skin. Further it increases collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans synthesis in the papillary dermis. Also exerts a depigmenting effect even in dark phototypes.
Glycolic acid has a high skin tolerance and a small molecular size. Because of that it has a great transepidermal penetration capacity. Its keratolytic activity favors the exfoliation of the superficial layers of the stratum corneum by altering the cohesion of the corneocytes. It stimulates cellular regeneration, promotes the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, increases the level of hydration of the epidermis and reinforces the natural barrier function of the skin. Also promotes penetration of other acids.